Clonmel Club conquers The Camino by Joe Kennedy

“Hola, buen Camino!” the frequent greeting from young and old, native and stranger along the Camino De Santiago. The pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in northwest Spain owes its origin to the discovery, in what is now Galicia, of the tomb of the Apostle James the Great sometime early in the 9th century.

There is huge tradition associated with the Camino so first we had to have our credential required for entry into the pilgrim albergues (hostels). These were stamped at each albergue, church, point of interest forming a great- and accurate record of our trip. Further, a cockle shell, symbol of St James is also carried to differentiate the peregrine from other travellers!

Justin McCarthy our mentor and co-leader crossed the Pyrenees via the Somport Pass, down through Jaca, Sangressa and joined us in Pamplona.

Meanwhile, Alicja Kaminska, Lorcan Ryan and Joe Kennedy, set off on the traditional route from St Jean Pied de Port over the Pyrenees through Roncesvalles and Larasonna to Pamplona in 3 days. The walk over the Pyrenees was majestic with spectacular views. We guess that about 100 other peregrinos set out each day even in mid October some expecting to arrive in Santiago by mid November.

Our co-leader and logistics expert Helen Shanahan led the main group including Leone Boyle, Ela Jago, Jimmy Trehy, Paul Kelly, Patricia Prendiville and Rebecca Dromey into our comfortable lodgings in Pamplona. After a nice pilgrim dinner we set of to tour the town focusing on the bull run held each year during the San Fermin Festival each July. Pamplona is a vibrant city with great architecture.

Friday morning, 21^st October saw the 11 of us head off in typical Peaks style, like rockets! The Camino route is generally well marked with yellow arrows or cockle shells however in towns they are often hard to spot so there were many unplanned detours and uncertainty till the next arrow was spotted.

Our leaders let everyone walk at their own pace which opened opportunities to meet fellow peregrinos on the way. Thomas from Berlin a heavy set young man looking for some space! Natalie from Toronto & Bordeaux taking time out, 3 ladies of a certain age from Finland just taking the opportunity to get away from the dark days there until the snow comes and lightens up the place. Great discussions, great company and great stories.

Our accommodation was highly varied. Some stayed in hotels the rest stuck to albergues. Usually albergues were dormitory accommodation with 8 double bunks sleeping 16 souls. Lights out in albergues was around 10pm! – Sounds early but our whole day was adapted to early starts and early nights – mainly to avoid the heat of the early afternoon. All albergues are clean with good washing and toilet facilities, although sometimes a bit cramped. With breakfast at €3, lunch at €5 and dinner € 12 including vino, the Camino budget is affordable.

Although we walked at our own pace and stopped on different accommodation we always managed to get together for dinner to share our stories, exchange opinions on blisters, strains and the news from home (floods – we missed all the rain).

Most days we walked 25 km with regular uphill excursions of 2 to 300 m – it seemed that every town or church was on the top of a hill!

Trail conditions were generally good forest tracks with short excursions on quiet roads and some severely eroded trails. We passed through all terrains, tillage, pasture, scrub and forest and as we neared Logrono, scrub gave way to vineyards.

The Camino is dotted with fine castles, hospitals and churches built when the Camino became popular and travel was more onerous. We passed through Puente la Reina, the hexagonal church of Enuate in the middle of a field, Cirauqui with its pre-Christian roman road (in need of repair), Lorca, Estella, Irache (the bodega with no wine), Los Arcos, Viana and Logrono. Each place holds particular memories for each of us.

Our Camino ended with a short walk into Logrono followed by local sightseeing and for some, a shopping fiesta! Logrono is another fine town with a classical old town. In the cathedral hidden away behind the alter there is a painting of the crucifixion by Michelangelo, quite a surprise. Most of us attended Jose Antonio’s requiem mass there – what’s happening to us?

Next day we bussed through vineyards and mountains to Bilbao and spent a relaxing day in this bustling city and at the Guggenheim Museum.

All in all a very nice introduction to the Camino for most of us, nicely paced, good company, good fun and clear heads. Many thanks to our leaders and organisers, Justin and Helen who made this Peaks trip so successful.

Here’s looking forward to the next stages of the Camino.